2020 Bibi Graetz - Testamatta Rosso Toscana IGT

Decanter.com - 97 pts - GH: *Wild roses and wild strawberries, the nose has a lovely fragrance and expression. Lifted and bright, this has such a beautiful delicacy to it, a creamy, chalkiness comes from the fine tannins with bright, succulent strawberry and raspberry leaf elements. You feel the savoury side too, the sweet vanilla spice and dried herb aspect which counter the fruit and the high acidity. I adore the finesse here, the sharp fruit giving the energy and the chalky texture giving the layers. Feels well controlled, powerful yet delivered with poise. It doesn't have so much overt weight, it's definitely more ethereal in terms of density, but the nuance of flavour is thrillingly captivating and this has a long lifted finish. A contemplative wine that keeps you wanting more and more. Made in new winery facilities in Fiesole. Grapes were picked from the best six vineyards; Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena with each divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times to get the perfect ripening points. Natural and indigenous fermentation in open top barriques (225l) for smaller parcels and 50hl cask or stainless steel tanks for larger plots. After 7-10 days of maceration, the parcels are moved into old barriques and 50hl casks for 20 months.* - 08/2022

Falstaff Magazin – 92 pts – OK, SS: *Funkelndes, leicht aufhellendes Rubin. Eröffnet mit betont würzigen Noten, nach Kräuterbonbons, dann fein nach knackiger Kirsche, frisch. Am Gaumen erstaunlich frisch und klar, feine Himbeernote, feinmaschiges Tannin von mittlerer Struktur, feine Himbeerfrucht, guter Trinkfluss, wirkt im Finale dann aber recht weitmaschig, von der Tiefe und Komplexität anderer Jahrgänge leider weit entfernt.* - 10/2022

The Wine Advocate – 95 pts – ML: *Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch.* - 06/2022

WeinWisser – 18,5/20pts – TB: *Ein kraftvoller Jahrgang, neue Weinbergslagen in Olmo, die Frische beisteuern, und eine neue Kellerei in Fiesole kennzeichnen nach eigenen Aussagen den Jahrgang 2020 von Bibi Graetz. Er meint, nun alle wichtigen Elemente in Händen zu halten, um seinen Testamatta und den Colore perfekt zu interpretieren. Der Testamatta 2020 besteht aus reinem Sangiovese und besitzt eine helle, zarte Farbe. Gewohnt duftig und zart durch die Höhenlagen der alten Rebstöcke, zeigt er sich mit einer feinsinnigen, sehr differenzierten Frucht und eleganter Süße. Klar strukturiert am Gaumen, mit finessenreich-seidiger Textur und geschmeidiger Fülle im Nachhall. Wie immer ein mühelos hingehauchter Sangiovese mit großer Delikatesse und erfreulich niedrigen 13 vol.-%.* - 17/2022

JancisRobinson.com – 16+/20pts – TP: *Harvested 24 September to 15 October. 100% Sangiovese. Mid-ruby colour with a strong note of red flowers together with a hint of balsamic vinegar and earthy forest fruits. The palate is lined with sour-cherry fruit and the grip of Sangiovese. Sandy and firm in texture despite the polished fruit. This blends modern refinement and Tuscan typicality.* - 09/2022

JamesSuckling.com – 94 pts: *Beautiful, fresh aromas of sour cherries, orange peel and lemon bush. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity and ultra-fine tannins that add brightness and energy to the wine. This is definitely following the new wave of crunchy, vivid Tuscany sangioveses, which emphasize drinkability and transparency.*

Vinous.com – 94 pts – EG: *Dusty, floral and lifted with flinty crushed stone, peppery herbs and tart raspberry, the 2020 Rosso Testamatta makes itself known in the glass. This is finessed and pure in style, combining bright acidity and minerals with wild strawberry fruit, all carried across seamlessly silky textures. While structured, the 2020 leaves the palate completely refreshed as a web of fine-grained tannins frames pretty rose and sweet spice nuances. What a darling. I expect that bottle age will bring more flesh to the palate, but even without it, the 2020 Testamatta, a varietal Sangiovese, is gorgeous.* - 10/2022